Sandra Buckland is celebrated for the 3D knitted garment patterns she designs. They are based mostly on the human profile. Her own knitted fabrics are utilised in the development of her unique structures. Her textiles are a result of intense experimentation on machines and is a patchwork of knitted pieces. Her 2010 collections were the first to be fully produced. Up until that moment all the work she fashioned was tailored. Tida Swinton modelled her most illustrious piece in the well celebrated Another Magazine.
Knitwear is used rather liberally in most of Owens collections. His creations time and again make use of rather basic methods in the development of his agreeably tailored outfits. On a number of occasions it is apparent to observe that innovative forms and shapes are produced as a consequence of the strategies he employs to shape the knitwear. The monochrome colour palette he employs to define the figure is identified as being exclusive to him and acts as a signature in a lot of ways. His pieces are habitually created in one progression on the machine. As a result of this practice Owens work repeatedly displays interesting and exceptional shapes and silhouettes.
Spanish born Gurillo worked as an illustrator prior to starting his own design business. Under his thorough direction he employs a group of enthusiastic knitters and crafts people. The techniques he employs are incredibly refined. A lot of his work features re-embroidered designs with knits crocheted on top. As a consequence of these technically convoluted hand knits most are not easily transferred to machines. It’s noticeable that more attention is paid to the material and it’s drape than the outline. His materials and yarns are of the uppermost quality and play a huge part in the aesthetics of the piece.
Dimitrousis’ handiwork is largely crocheted and unisex. He describes his maths-orientated mind to be behind the love of crochet, even though I recently revealed his mother was in reality behind it all! He also focuses on the drape and the significance of the finished garment. His most recent collection was adorned with sequins and frills.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul regularly sprinkles his collection with key knitwear pieces. His strategies are by no means groundbreaking although, conversely Gaultier is a master of combining knit with other materials. His blends can consist of soft chiffons with jagged mesh. He is proficient at including detail with many describing his knits as works of art.
If you’ve heard of the extravagant laddering technique then you may well know it was pioneered by Jennifer Lang. Her MA collection gained fame as soon as it was reported on in the British tabloid newspapers. A litany of celebrities were reported to be ordering tailored knit wear repeatedly from her. In appreciation of her success she was awarded a stand at London Fashion Week along with a studio in Cockpit Studios. Designer catwalks in next to no time got used to seeing her creations and as a result she was offered a position with the All Saints brand.
The knitting world was enraptured after Shailes presented her hand knitted collection at Central St Martins College. Her procedures were complex and time consuming and her designs were very contemporary. The square cut jackets juxtaposed the light frothy approaches. Her jackets and knitted cardigans were siezed upon by Topshop and her first collection was launched. Since that collection she has been employed by Celine.
Goldin is also a St Martins College graduate perhaps helping to explain her contemporary designs. She has a skill for finding unique fresh yarns who’s aesthetics lend themselves to original, advanced designs. The molded knitwear and chiffon shifts of her most recent collection strike an attractive balance. Her knitwear pieces have rejuvenated the knitwear business and encouraged further knitwear designers to show at London Fashion Week. She is a strong prospect and so will be watched with interest.
Rykiel’s handiwork is humorous and light hearted and her knitwear certainly does not miss out on this. Her jumpers have proved exceedingly desirable in the main. Like Gaultier she focuses on aesthetic detail to convey her message.
Giles’ hefty outsized knits have to be considered his most revered handiwork to date. His three dimensional knitted parts were more architectural structures than garments. Giles creates his pieces around a silhouette that allows him to construct new female styles. It is fair to say that he has pushed the boundaries of the hefty knitwear scene. He opened the market to a niche for exaggerated knitwear as lengthy scarves were quickly on the high street, chunky hats and knitted boots were the next step. It was a surprise to this writer that Aran knitwear was not more in style following his collection.